Bike Touring Journals by Neil Anderson and Sharon Anderson Two for the Road Bicycle touring France
23 Oh, Gilbert!
I liked Madeleine's place. It had a large yard with plenty of space, sunlight and singing birds. The noise from town below was blocked by a thick line of trees on the hillside. A good view of Draguignan and the surrounding country could be seen from the verandah.
In contrast I detested the house where Hélène and Paul lived. It was right next to a noisy, stinky, busy road that rumbled past their doorstep. I didn't know how they managed to live there for twelve years. It cost $1000 a month and wasn't even close enough to town for Paul to walk.
Madeleine worked for PTT the French Post Telephone Telegraph. Or, as she called it: PT for Petit Travail (little work). She worked a two week on, two week off arrangement. She phoned and got permission to bring us to her work canteen for lunch. One hundred and fifty telephone employees ate there each day. I had rabbit that tasted like chicken, only chewier. It cost far less than the Four Seasons restaurant though.
With thunder and rain every few minutes it was a good day to be off the road. In the evening, Madeleine's friend, Gilbert, came over to barbecue mutton and pork sausage over glowing embers. Madeleine maintained Gilbert was just a friend, but whenever he said something to her it was usually in the form of a compliment. Madeleine would fluster slightly and respond, "Oh, Gilbert!"
Gilbert was seventy years old, but looked much younger: tanned, strong and fit. Gilbert had been in the war. That was where he had learned to speak English. In Draguignan, he was a translator-conciliator for the justice department--in Arabic. "A very easy language to learn," he assured us. "As easy as English."
Gilbert also grilled tomatoes over the coals. Apparently, they were done when the skin was entirely blackened. The outer charred mass was meticulously cut off and discarded. The remaining mushy flesh was eaten with fresh bread. Scrumptious.
I became quite adept at removing corks after a lesson from Gilbert. The sparkling Rosé was cold and flavourful. Whiskey would have gave it two paws up.
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